Selasa, 30 September 2014

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Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century, by Kyoto Costume Institute

Dress codes: The ultimate compendium of clothing   Clothes define people. A person’s attire, whether it’s a sari, kimono, or business suit, is an essential code to his or her culture, class, personality, even faith. Founded in 1978, the Kyoto Costume Institute recognizes the importance of understanding clothes from sociological, historical, and artistic perspectives. With one of the world’s most extensive clothing collections, the KCI has amassed a wide range of historical garments, underwear, shoes, and fashion accessories dating from the 18th century to the present day.

Showcasing the Institute’s vast collection, Fashion is a fascinating excursion through the last three centuries of clothing trends. Featuring impeccable photography of clothing expertly displayed and arranged on custom-made mannequins, it is a testimony to attire as “an essential manifestation of our very being” and to the Institute's passion for fashion as a complex and intricate art form.

The book's authors include some of the smartest minds and sharpest eyes in fashion studies: Akiko Fukai (Chief Curator of The Kyoto Costume Institute), Tamami Suoh (Curator of The Kyoto Costume Institute), Miki Iwagami (Lecturer of fashion history at Sugino Fashion College (Tokyo)), Reiko Koga (Professor of fashion history at Bunka Women’s University), and Rie Nii (Associate Curator of The Kyoto Costume Institute).   About the series:
Bibliotheca Universalis — Compact cultural companions celebrating the eclectic TASCHEN universe at an unbeatable, democratic price!
Since we started our work as cultural archaeologists in 1980, the name TASCHEN has become synonymous with accessible, open-minded publishing. Bibliotheca Universalis brings together nearly 100 of our all-time favorite titles in a neat new format so you can curate your own affordable library of art, anthropology, and aphrodisia.
Bookworm’s delight — never bore, always excite!

  • Sales Rank: #53824 in Books
  • Published on: 2015-11-20
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 7.90" h x 1.70" w x 5.70" l, 2.80 pounds
  • Binding: Hardcover
  • 648 pages

Most helpful customer reviews

75 of 76 people found the following review helpful.
One of the most beautiful books I have seen
By C. Berte
Being familiar with two earlier Kyoto Costume Institute (KCI) publications--The Evolution of Fashion (19th & 20th Century) and The Revolution of Fashion (18th Century)--I was excited to discover that Taschen had produced a new book covering fashions from the 18th to the 20th Century found in the KCI collection. Although I was concerned that this new book might just be a revision and compilation of photos from the two earlier exhibits (with, perhaps, some additional costumes to cover the second-half of the 20th Century), at 700+ pages, I figured there must be at least a few new entries.
The book arrived today and I have been unable to put it down. As soon as I opened the book, I knew that my fears had been unfounded. The new book not only includes costumes found in the earlier books, but includes detailed close-ups of those costumes and many new costumes. The depth of color and detail in the photos is extraordinary. (Taschen is well known for the quality of its publications.) Although the text accompanying the photos is generally quite minimal--limited in many cases to date, description and the inventory number of each piece--it will often include some historical information in an introduction to a period or style. Moreover, many of the 20th Century entries are preceded by a short biographical sketch of the designer whose fashions follow.
The KCI is well-known for its extensive collection of Western costume. One of the Institute's rather unique features lies in its presentation of those costumes. Rather than laying the clothes out flat, they are displayed on manikins in the manner in which they would have been worn--including shoes, hats, gloves, purses, fans, etc. Through this book, Taschen has succeeded in making the KCI collection accessible to the rest of the world.
(As testament to the quality and beauty of this book, two co-workers I showed the book to today--people who are not costumers or designers--have placed their orders for a copy.)
Without a doubt, this book will be a well-treasured addition to my library.

15 of 15 people found the following review helpful.
this book is one of the best
By EP Trauma
This book is spectacular. I have nothing bad to say about it at all. It chronicles fashion from the 18th century to today, and it shows as well as tells you clear examples of every changing detail. I'm interested in both historical and modern fashion, and this book is a fantastic resource for both victorian fashion and current fashion and everything in between. the picture quality is top notch and every item is displayed and photographed flawlessly. the text is interesting and informative. i'd say this is a must have for any fashion student, especially ones interested in alternative or historical fashion. I like that this book chronicles western fashion, but since it was published in japan from a japanese school, it examines the effects that the east had on western fashion. they also include lots of women designers even from historical times when women were not commonly coture designers. there is detailed information about why fashions changed and the influences impacting the changes without getting off the subject and turning into a history lesson. this book gets an A+ and is worth every penny i paied for it. (at a museum, so i didn't get the amazon discount either.)

13 of 13 people found the following review helpful.
Where has this book been all my life?
By chintz22
This tome has rocketed to the top of my costume book collection. Fine quality color photographs with plenty of detail shots of one of the most impressive collections of costume in the world for around $30? An unbelievable value! Each era is covered well, but I found the clothing from 1750-1800 to be especially gorgeous. If you have an interest in historic clothing get this book NOW!

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  • Sales Rank: #3250077 in Books
  • Published on: 2012
  • Binding: Audio CD

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The Story of My People: From Rural Southern Italy to Mainstream America, by Mario Mignone

Literary Nonfiction. Italian American Studies. "In THE STORY OF MY PEOPLE, Mario Mignone gives eloquent testimony to the hopes, fears, struggles and ultimate triumph of his family's extraordinary journey from rural Italy to the American Dream. He also gives a poignant voice to the millions of other immigrants who left the Mezzogiorno for L'America. In the process, he shows how to perform the critical balancing act of embracing the future while preserving the past."— Stanislao G. Pugliese, Hofstra University

  • Sales Rank: #798162 in Books
  • Published on: 2015-06-15
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 9.02" h x .49" w x 5.98" l, .71 pounds
  • Binding: Paperback
  • 216 pages

About the Author
Mario Mignone is the founder and director of the Center for Italian Studies at Stony Brook University. He is director of student exchange programs with University of Rome "La Sapienza" and University of Messina. Mignone served as chairman of the department of French and Italian at Stony Brook for nine years, founded the Association of Italian American Educators and served as its first president. He is a former president of the Long Island Chapter of the American Association of Teachers of Italian.

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0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
A heartfelt immigrant's story...
By Giuseppe Battista
"The Story of My People" is an extremely captivating book which illustrates first hand what it is to achieve "The American Dream" for Immigrants during the 1960's. Mario Mignone takes us on an incredible journey describing eloquently the courage and hardships that he endured for the sake of success, along with his drive to earn an education during his years at City College, NY. Through the chapters, he has captured the social and cultural transformation of the Italian immigrant student, along with their deep rooted sense of pride in their rich heritage. It was very moving for me, as I was also a part of this historical experience, which marked a period in time where "The American Dream" seemed almost unattainable. by Giuseppe Battista
"Eruditio Populi Liberi, Spes Gentium" (The education of a free people, is the hope of mankind.)

0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
The Story of My People is a great book for everyone to read and that I very ...
By Charle Sclafani
The Story of My People is a great book for everyone to read and that I very highly recommend it. In the Story of My People, Mario Mignone has given us a realistic experience of an immigrant Italian family of eight children who left the agricultural land of Benevento in the 1960s to settle in the new world of New York and Westchester.
In the Story of My People you feel the difficult experiences of growing up in Italy in the 1950s and 1960s and the struggle and achievement of the American dream of success in the new land of opportunities by every single member of the Mignone family. A dream achieved by sacrifice, hard work, family unity, family love, family care and a great faith in God.

Carlo Sclafani, SUNY Distinguished Professor

1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
and determination to provide love, affection
By rocco pallone
Mario Mignone’s book The Story of My People deserves to be read by all the Italian immigrants and in my opinion it belongs in the reading list of all the courses on Italian immigration. In his book Mario.Mignone shares with his readers the secret formula that allowed the eight young children of two Italian immigrants to become doctors, college Professors, High School and Elementary School teachers. Since I met the newly arrived Mignone’s family the same week they arrived from Italy, I consider myself an eye witness of the extraordinary American successful experience. I truly believe that the author has been able to detach himself completely as one of the main characters of the book and was able to become an impartial teller of his family successful American experience. The main character in my opinion is the author’s mother Palmina Mignone, an extraordinary woman with only a 3rd grade education. She “had the strength, the courage, and determination to provide love, affection, dedication, wisdom and leadership for the family. She became the “matriarch” of the Mignone’s family. Mario Mignone became my role model and I began to follow his footsteps. He installed in me the need of an American education and the importance of an advanced and terminal degree. Thank you Mario for being my friend and congratulations to the Mignone’s family for the extraordinary successful American experience.
Rocco Pallone, Ph.D.
Associate Professor Emeritus, Fordham University

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  • Sales Rank: #16901476 in Books
  • Published on: 2002-06
  • Binding: Paperback

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Sabtu, 13 September 2014

[Z724.Ebook] Free PDF A Deafening Whisper, by Erik Schubach

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A Deafening Whisper, by Erik Schubach

Mia has lived a life full of harassment, for an affliction not many understand. She thought college would be different, her escape, after all, people there are more mature right? She was wrong. A rebellious girl, Vee, saves her from a bad situation and teaches her that every single day is a gift. A romance blooms between them that not even time can erase. This is the second book in the "Music of the Soul" series, all books are stand alone novels.

  • Sales Rank: #3024183 in Books
  • Published on: 2013-04-22
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 9.00" h x .48" w x 6.00" l, .66 pounds
  • Binding: Paperback
  • 210 pages

Most helpful customer reviews

6 of 6 people found the following review helpful.
Another heartwarming story filled with amazing characters
By Cathryn
I didn't waste a second in buying this book, but after the prologue I did hesitate to continue reading. I knew the story and characters were going to be unforgettable and lovable but I also knew that I would get attached-- and of course, we find out in the beginning that it will have a sad ending. So, I took a moment to prepare for the inevitable (falling in love with the characters only to know I'll lose one), and began to read.

I definitely suggest giving this story a read! The characters are heart warming and you can't help but smile throughout the whole book. Also, if you haven't read Music of the Soul- get on it.

Thank you again Erik Schubach!

You gotta do something about a Facebook page for the fans.

4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Emotional....but so worth it!!!
By Becky
This book is an emotional roller coaster, I laughed and cried throughout the whole thing. I wanted to freeze the book half way through because it was so good and I didn't want it to end. This is one of the best books I have read in a long time, and will be putting it on my re-read list. I wish the story continued on even if only for a few more chapters. I look forward to more books from this author.

2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
Very good lesbian romance
By Cynthia Sadler
I would give the story 5 stars, but it needs a bit more editing (punctuation, grammar, etc.), so I can only give it 4 stars.

Great story, and a really good lesbian romance. This was my second book I've read by Mr. Schubach, and I'm impressed with his creativity and storytelling. I found the characters to be well developed. If you love lesbian fiction, I recommend you give this a read.

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Jumat, 05 September 2014

[X723.Ebook] Ebook A Century of Media, A Century of War, by Robin Andersen

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A Century of Media, A Century of War, by Robin Andersen

Forged over the course of a century, the connections between war and media run long and deep. As this book reveals, the history of war and its telling has been a battle over public perception. The selection of which stories are told and which are ignored helps justify past battles and ensure future wars. Narratives of protest and pain, defeat and suffering, guilt and abuse struggle to be heard amid the empowering myths of war and heroism.
As Robin Andersen argues, the history of struggle between war and its representation has changed the way war is fought and the way we tell the stories of war. Information management, once called censorship and propaganda, has developed in tandem with new media technologies. Now, digital imaging creates virtual battlefields as computer-based technologies transform the weapons of war. Along the way, images on the nightly news, on movie screens, and in video games have turned war into entertainment. In the grip of virtual war, it is difficult to realize the loss of compassion or the consequences for democracy.

  • Sales Rank: #687590 in Books
  • Brand: Brand: Peter Lang Publishing
  • Published on: 2006-09-01
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 9.06" h x .70" w x 6.30" l, 1.14 pounds
  • Binding: Paperback
  • 350 pages
Features
  • Used Book in Good Condition

Review
«Robin Andersen has long been an incisive media critic with great scope and depth. In ‘A Century of Media, A Century of War’, she provides a sharp overview of a grisly media landscape. This book is a fierce light that removes the shadowy evasions of our easy reveries for war. The result is a chilling panorama of what we routinely hide from ourselves - bitter truths about media systems that deceive men and women into avidly or passively supporting the latest war. Readers can take little comfort from this well-documented story, but they can learn crucial lessons about real-life consequences when media outlets serve the warfare state.» (Norman Solomon, Author, ‘War Made Easy: How Presidents and Pundits Keep Spinning Us to Death’)

From the Back Cover
"Robin Andersen has long been an incisive media critic with great scope and depth. In A Century of Media, A Century of War, she provides a sharp overview of a grisly media landscape. This book is a fierce light that removes the shadowy evasions of our easy reveries for war. The result is a chilling panorama of what we routinely hide from ourselves—bitter truths about media systems that deceive men and women into avidly or passively supporting the latest war. Readers can take little comfort from this well-documented story, but they can learn crucial lessons about real-life consequences when media outlets serve the warfare state."

—Norman Solomon, author, War Made Easy: How Presidents and Pundits Keep Spinning Us to Death

About the Author
The Author: Robin Andersen is Associate Professor of Communication and Media Studies and Director of the Peace and Justice Studies Program at Fordham University. She received her Ph.D. at the University of California, Irvine. Her writings appear in numerous book chapters and journal articles, and she is the author of Consumer Culture and TV Programming (1995) and co-editor of Critical Studies in Media Commercialism (2000).

Most helpful customer reviews

11 of 11 people found the following review helpful.
A Must Read to Better Understand the War in Iraq
By Word Warrior
Media critic Robin Andersen's timely work, A Century of Media, A Century of War, is a must read for those seeking to understand how we were drawn into the war in Iraq.

Just how did the Bush Administration and its corporate media allies sell us on successive lies to get us into this war? Director of the Peace and Justice Studies Program at Fordham University, Professor Andersen investigates the collaborative relationship of the media with the current and past administrations to promote the wars of the last 100 years.

The chapter, "The Military Entertainment Complex: Permanent War and the Digital Spectacular," is the most cogent look yet at the nexus of the media industry and the Pentagon as Andersen examines the Department of Defense's (DOD) funding of corporate research and development of "militainment" for the recruitment, training and selling of current and future wars.

In her conclusion, "War, Humanism and Democracy," Andersen clearly elucidates the threat the media/DOD collusion is to democracy, writing, "Militainment does not fulfill the media's democratic mandate, any more than does the simple dissemination of government proclamations."

This seminal work provides the reader with a better understanding of how we are being manipulated and gives us the tools to cut through the media fog surrounding wars and maybe, just maybe, help prevent future armed conflicts that are not in the nation's interest.

5 of 5 people found the following review helpful.
An amazing study of the US state's wars and the media
By William Podmore
This is an amazing book. Robin Andersen, Associate Professor of Communication and Media Studies at Fordham University, studies the US media's role in times of war. Her book is full of the most dreadful facts about the USA's wars. From print in World War One to video games in the Gulf War, the media have used the most up-to-date advertising and marketing techniques to whip up public support for those wars.

War video games promote war as a fun, empowering game. They are also used for military training. The video game America's Army became the army's most important recruitment tool. At one time it had three million players, making it the number one free online action game.

Digital spectaculars like Top Gun, Rambo, Saving Private Ryan, and Black Hawk Down all promote war as heroic and humane. Who needs reasons for war when there are such striking images of war?

The military becomes part of entertainment, especially sports events. Propaganda is silent about deaths, especially civilian deaths, about the use of vile anti-personnel weapons like phosphorus bombs and cluster bombs, about international law, and about opposition to the war.

General MacArthur admitted that the US forces' scorched earth policy had created `a wasteland' in North Korea. One of the Korean War's main activists, Dean Rusk, said, the USAF bombed `everything that moved, every brick standing on top of another brick'. An official communiqué said, "It's hard to find good targets, for we have burned out almost everything." In the 1950 No Gun Ri massacre, in South Korea, "Roughly three hundred civilians, many of them women and children, were bombed and strafed from the air by U.S. gunner pilots under direct military command to do so."

The best historian of the Korean War, Bruce Cumings, wrote of "three years of genocidal bombing by the U.S. Air Force which killed perhaps two million civilians (one-quarter of the population), dropped oceans of napalm, left barely a modern building standing, opened large dams to flood nearby rice valleys and kill thousands of peasants by denying them food, and went far beyond anything done in Vietnam in a conscious program of using air power to destroy a society ..."

"El Salvador's new government today made its first get-tough reply to protesting leftists ..." CBS, 28 October 1979. The media always assume that the government in allied states is democratic, whatever the facts, and they always present its acts as self-defence, reactive and necessary. The media always assume that the opposition in enemy states is democratic, whatever the facts, and they always present its acts as self-defence, reactive and necessary.

The US invasion of Grenada was a `violation of international law', as the UN Security Council decided on 2 November 1983. In 1986 the International Court of Justice found the US state guilty of terrorism against Nicaragua. Former contra leader Edgar Chamorro wrote in his book Packaging the contras: a case of CIA disinformation, "During my four years as contra director, it was premeditated policy to terrorize civilian non-combatants to prevent them from cooperating with the Government. Hundreds of civilian murders, tortures and rapes were committed in pursuit of this policy, of which the `contra' leaders and their CIA superiors were well aware."

Chamorro also wrote, "It is a gross fabrication to claim that the contras are composed of democratic groups.... This is how murder and torture were justified, how the destruction of property and the sabotage of the economy and the social fabric of a nation were excused, all in the name of patriotism and anticommunism."

In 1990, a Kuwaiti girl lied to the US Congress that Iraqi soldiers had stormed Kuwaiti hospitals and thrown premature babies out of their incubators and left them on the floor to die. Amnesty International fell for this and stated in its report to Congress that 312 babies were killed. The girl who told this lie was the daughter of the Kuwaiti ambassador to the USA. The girl had been coached by the PR firm Hill and Knowlton. She later admitted her story was not true.

During the Gulf War of 1990-91, a study found that the more television that people watched, the less they knew and the more they backed the war.

The Downing Street memo of July 2002 said that war on Iraq was `inevitable' and that "facts were being fixed around the policy". Yet for months afterwards Bush and Blair lied that war would only be `a last resort'.

3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
Totally Unbiased Reporting
By Carioca56
This book is mostly fact, intertwined with the author's interpretation of the latter.

On page 315 author Robin Andersen writes about Abe Lincoln who said: "I am a firm believer in people. If given the truth, they can be depended upon to meet the national crisis."

Unfortunately, the people are NOT given the facts, as Ms. Andersen shows for more than 300 pages.

This book documents how America's imperial tendencies have not simply been ignored, but promoted by the mass media.

Some quotes are as follows............

The author Robin Andersen refers to suffering and death as "an acceptable practice in contemporary democratic society." Is she referring to contemporary American democratic society, or contemporary world democratic society? One can only imagine.

On the Iraq War Andersen quotes a Dr. Jabbar who said: "I saw the cluster bombs with my own eyes. Not less than 60% of the dead were women and children."

Probably, most telling, she points out that the operation to rescue an elite group of American soldiers, documented in the film "Black Hawk Down," left more than one thousand Somalis dead, in order to rescue a dozen odd American soldiers.

A horribly accurate tale of government and media collaboration to present war to the public as something that we can't live without.

Four stars. One star missing for the staccato style of reporting. But this woman is a scholar, not a writer.

Thank you Ms. Andersen.

P.S. I am still upset with Amazon.com for their denial of internet services to Wikileaks.

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Senin, 01 September 2014

[N771.Ebook] PDF Ebook Computational Paralinguistics: Emotion, Affect and Personality in Speech and Language Processing, by Björn Schuller, Anton Batliner

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Computational Paralinguistics: Emotion, Affect and Personality in Speech and Language Processing, by Björn Schuller, Anton Batliner

This book presents the methods, tools and techniques that are currently being used to recognise (automatically) the affect, emotion, personality and everything else beyond linguistics (‘paralinguistics’) expressed by or embedded in human speech and language.

It is the first book to provide such a systematic survey of paralinguistics in speech and language processing. The technology described has evolved mainly from automatic speech and speaker recognition and processing, but also takes into account recent developments within speech signal processing, machine intelligence and data mining.

Moreover, the book offers a hands-on approach by integrating actual data sets, software, and open-source utilities which will make the book invaluable as a teaching tool and similarly useful for those professionals already in the field.

Key features:

  • Provides an integrated presentation of basic research (in phonetics/linguistics and humanities) with state-of-the-art engineering approaches for speech signal processing and machine intelligence.
  • Explains the history and state of the art of all of the sub-fields which contribute to the topic of computational paralinguistics.
  • C overs the signal processing and machine learning aspects of the actual computational modelling of emotion and personality and explains the detection process from corpus collection to feature extraction and from model testing to system integration.
  • Details aspects of real-world system integration including distribution, weakly supervised learning and confidence measures.
  • Outlines machine learning approaches including static, dynamic and context‑sensitive algorithms for classification and regression.
  • Includes a tutorial on freely available toolkits, such as the open-source ‘openEAR’ toolkit for emotion and affect recognition co-developed by one of the authors, and a listing of standard databases and feature sets used in the field to allow for immediate experimentation enabling the reader to build an emotion detection model on an existing corpus.

  • Sales Rank: #1266727 in Books
  • Published on: 2013-12-04
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 9.90" h x .90" w x 7.00" l, 1.48 pounds
  • Binding: Hardcover
  • 344 pages

From the Back Cover
This book presents the methods, tools and techniques that are currently being used to recognise (automatically) the affect, emotion, personality and everything else beyond linguistics (‘“paralinguistics”’) expressed by or embedded in human speech and language. It is the first book to provide such a systematic survey of paralinguistics in speech and language processing. The technology described has evolved mainly from automatic speech and speaker recognition and processing but also takes into account recent developments within speech signal processing, machine intelligence and data mining. Moreover, the book offers a hands-on approach by integrating actual data sets, software, and open-source utilities which will make the book invaluable as a teaching tool and similarly useful for those professionals already in the field.

Key features

  • Provides an integrated presentation of basic research (in phonetics/linguistics and humanities) with state-of-the-art engineering approaches for speech signal processing and machine intelligence.
  • Explains the history and state of the art of all of the sub-fields which contribute to the topic of computational paralinguistics.
  • Covers the signal processing and machine learning aspects of the actual computational modelling of emotion and personality and explains the detection process from corpus collection to feature extraction and from model testing to system integration.
  • Details aspects of real-world system integration including distribution, weakly supervised learning and confidence measures.
  • Outlines machine learning approaches including static, dynamic and context-sensitive algorithms for classification and regression.
  • Includes a tutorial on freely available toolkits, such as the open-source ‘openEAR’ toolkit for emotion and affect recognition co-developed by one of the authors, and a listing of standard databases and feature sets used in the field to allow for immediate experimentation enabling the reader to build an emotion detection model on an existing corpus.

About the Author

Björn Schuller, Technische Universität München, Germany

Anton Batliner, Friedrich-Alexander-Universität Erlangen-Nürnberg, Germany

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